Review: Mildreds, King’s Cross

Well, this is my first blog in some time. Having had a wedding to plan and execute, followed by a lovely two-week break in Sri Lanka, cooking and blogging has been on the back-burner for a while. But after an amazing wedding and honeymoon, I’m back in the game!

Last night I went to Mildreds in King’s Cross. I went to the flagship Soho branch a few years back, but the lack of opportunity to book a table in a tiny restaurant put me off going back. The no-booking policy still applies to their new branch, however, the restaurant is much bigger so the wait to be seated is less of an issue for those of us easily hangered. In fact, as we got there just after 6pm on a Tuesday, we were seated straight away.

Having opened its first Soho restaurant in the 80s, Mildreds has been serving vegetarian food to the capital for almost 30 years. When I moved to London seven years ago, it was the go-to place for vegetarians. It is something of an institution. Serving an array of dishes from across the globe – everything from curries and tagines to burgers and pies – there is something for everyone.

Earlier in the day, I’d made a feeble resolution with myself that I would order something healthy, but despite my well-to-do mental note, I couldn’t resist the classic smoked tofu burger.

Now this is a proper veggie burger. None of that ‘cheese-and-vegetables-in-a-brioche-bun-posing-as-a-burger’ malarky, but a full-on brick-sized patty made up of smoked tofu, lentils and piquillo peppers, topped with melted cheese, rocket, relish, red onion and tomato. It was hearty and tasty. My only criticism is the raw onion; it’s not worth the lingering smell on your breath.

I ordered chips and basil mayo on the side. The chips were fat and crisp, and as a salt fiend, they were served well-sprinkled with rock salt. The basil mayo was creamy and dreamy, and made an excellent dipping sauce for both the burger and chips.

I opted for a more virtuous drink option to wash it all down with; a strawberry, pineapple and apple juice. It reminded me of the room temperature juices Wagamama serve. Thick, fruity and sweet. A little on the pricey side for £4.25 perhaps.

If you’re after a less carby option, my friend opted for the chickpea, cauliflower and apricot tagine, which was presented beautifully with a side of quinoa tabbouleh and green harissa. And a side of every foodstagrammer’s favourite, smashed avocado with blue corn chips.

For a return visit, I think I’d opt for a couple of small plates. The chilli, lime and mirin fried tofu with mango soba noodle salad sounds delicious, as do their dips.

The staff were friendly and attentive and the atmosphere was relaxed. The place was packed and buzzing by the time we left.

I’d definitely recommend giving this newer branch of Mildreds a go.